Time for Indian Artisans to shine on the Global Map

India is second largest textile and apparel exporter and largest exporter of hand embroidery in the
world. Textile exports from India is projected to grow from the current USD 44.4 billion to USD
100 billion in the next five years. India exports most of its hand embroidery to France and Italy.
Textile sector is also the second largest provider of employment in India, after agriculture. It
provides employment to around 45million people.
The Indian textile industry reflects the country’s rich history and heritage that dates back to as far as
2500 BC. Indian embroiders, (also referred as karigars) are known to be among the best in the
world. These craftsmen showcase the culture and traditions of India. They pass on the know-how
and techniques through generations and weave the artistic fabric of India. They are the backbone
of Indian fashion industry and custodians of rare art forms.
For more than three decades, several global luxury brands have secretly subcontracted their
embroidery work to Indian karigars. These brands never gave due credit to Indian artisans who
were always kept behind the scenes. Rather, the association with India was never highlighted by
these brands as they thought it might demean their brand equity due to India’s perception as low
product quality producing country.
However, matter of fact is from Alessandro Michele’s Gucci collection, adorned with tigers and
butterflies to Dior’s embellished saddle bags and Jennifer Lopez jungle print Versace dress were
all handcrafted in India by its coveted artisans. But, unfortunately, instead of recognizing Indian
artisans, they were deprived of basic wages and working conditions. In spite of hefty price tags
for luxury brands, the condition of factories was no better than factories producing fast fashion
brands.
Even though these haute couture houses have been boosting about their corporate social
responsibility towards people and planet, the reality looked somewhat different and ironical as
compared to their claims. Post Bangladesh’s Rana Plaza disaster, as surveillance of supply chain
grew, luxury brands became anxious about their ties to India and initiated ‘Utthan pact’ in 2016
to uplift Indian art and embroidery and ensure the safety of artisans working in factories, but
actual implementation and results fell considerably short of claims.
Major international brands that considered India as a least priority market are extremely bullish
on the Indian market today. One of the key factors driving this change is the fact that India has
the third largest number of millionaires. Euromonitor expects the Indian luxury market to grow
from an estimated $5.9 billion in 2022 to $6.1 billion this year. All international brands want to
be part of this growth rally. Dior is the first international luxury brand to do an official calendar
show in India. Dior’s creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri collaborated with Mumbai-based
Chanakya school of embroidery to showcase Pre-Fall 2023 show. The collection displayed rich
Indian cultural heritage which included 25 craft techniques such as phulkari, mirror work, french
knotting, and kantha. In the coming times, we will certainly witness many other global luxury

brands following the same suit to build brand awareness and emotional bond with Indian
audience.
In future, skilled artisans must be given the due for heart and soul put by them. They deserve to get
all the limelight and visibility for the work and effort they relentlessly put to bring life to lifeless
objects. The question is: Is it fair that these artisans are paid pennies for the master pieces that are
exhibited in the luxury maison? Absolutely not! It is high time now that Indian artisans should start
commanding premium pricing for their impeccable, absolutely unique and high-quality artwork.
Although haute couture houses have been historically sourcing intricate hand work from Indian
master craftsmen, now is the time for Indian designers to put their best foot forward to showcase
the spectacular Indian artforms in the global world of fashion. Recently, Gaurav Gupta, Rahul
Mishra, and Vaishali Shadangule have made it to Paris haute couture week and astounded the
world with Indian age-old techniques and traditional embroideries fused in the modern avatar.
Indian weaves have immense potential to gain global appeal. Indian homegrown luxury brands can
ride on the strength of Indian artisans’ rich history, legacy and design capabilities to create global
luxury brands. In order to achieve this, Indian brands should communicate India’s true legacy and
strength in the most effective manner to global audience. It will not only help them command a
premium positioning, but will also help in getting due credit and recognition as well as financial
gains for the thousands of artisans of our country.
While, it took almost five decades for Indian fashion to reach Paris Haute Couture fashion week,
I think India has arrived now and there is no looking back. The coming decade belongs to India
and the spotlight should be on the India’s artisanal legacy.